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Dressing Well 101: Suit Edition – Jacket Construction

There is absolutely no excuse of why a man shouldn’t know why fashion and being well dressed is important.

If you’re still one to ask why, let me give you two good reasons: women and work. Successful independent women will dismiss you upon sight. That girl in your class, the chick at the bar, or the hottie who works with you – they all know the importance of image. It’s an expression of how one takes care of themselves, as well as something that screams success. At work? Same thing goes down, just with a different criteria. You want that job at the bank? You have to dress well. You want respect in a high paying career field? You have to command that respect by taking care of your image.

Idioms such as “clothes make the man” are in existence because image is everything whether you’re working up the corporate ladder, doing an interview, or trying to woo a lady. As the suit jacket is one of the most versatile pieces in a man’s wardrobe, whether it’d be a formal or informal event, it’s a staple in any man’s closet. This mini-guide on suit jackets will save you the trouble of looking your worst when you think you’re looking your best.

Jacket Types

There are elements of a jacket that one must be aware about before considering a purchase. The fabric, cut, pattern, and the quality of the fabric are often what’s focused on. When it comes down to suits though, there’s something that many men are left in the dark about – the construction.

There are two types of jackets, canvassed and fused. These are two very different types of jackets, because of the different method of construction they use. Canvassed jackets are the traditional construction, having a layer of horsehair underneath the shell of the jacket in order to hold the shape of the suit. This prevents the jacket from deforming or sagging. The canvas of a suit is the very foundation of the suit, as it keeps its shape and form. Over time, the canvas will slowly mold to your body’s shape, which creates a perfect fitting jacket.

fusedv21

The fused suit is the opposite. Rather than having a foundation (the canvas), a fusible interlining is glued to the outer shell of the jacket. This allows for the jacket to keep its shape, but creates a stiffness in the jacket. It may hold its shape initially, but over time the glue can potentially become ineffective, which allows for ripples in the chest and lapel area, otherwise known as bubbling. This is something that no owner of a suit would want, as it’s an irreversible tragedy.

Half-Canvassed and Full Canvassed Jackets

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Full canvassed jackets are very expensive, and should only be pursued if the buyer has enough to spend on an extremely high quality suit. The canvas would fill the entire suit, and it would be one of the best fitting and looking suits someone would ever buy. A fully canvassed suit will also last a lifetime if properly taken care of. This type of jacket is often only available through bespoke tailoring because of its high price and exclusivity in the market today.

half3

Half-canvassed jackets are what the name implies, the canvas only goes down the top half of the jacket. Many retailers carry half-canvassed jackets in order to provide customers with a less expensive option, but equally as soft and natural looking when one wears it. Because of the canvas of this type of jacket going down through the top half, the wearer will experience no bubbling problems that the wearer may have in a fused jacket, which directly adds to the lifespan of it. It will also have the proper foundation for the jacket to flow smoothly across the wearers chest. These jackets are often available off the rack from retailers that are known for suits, such as Brooks Brothers.

Where to Buy?

Retailers like Brooks Brothers, Ralph Lauren, Isaia, and Ermenegildo Zegna amongst others will have jackets that would propel your style to the next level realm if you can afford it, but what about if you can’t? Don’t worry, there are plenty of smaller companies that offer similar quality styles for cheaper prices because they’re not a globally known brand.

Photo credits: http://www.theblacklapel.com

 

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About theoriginaljath (15 Articles)
Jack Hui is the founder of The International Passion. He is currently studying business at York University. He has a passion for food, wine, and watches. You can follow him on Twitter at @theoriginaljath

1 Comment on Dressing Well 101: Suit Edition – Jacket Construction

  1. Det forbandet barn (min datter) var på efterskole besøg, som var faastntisk, men kunne derfor ikke komme af sted.Min pengepung er nok glad, men mine øjne er ikke, for det er da nogle fantastiske ting du har fået med hjem. Når det bliver til næste år;0))

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